Welcome to Gotham
first. everything else negotiable.
Skyline, one loop, one drink. Stop there.
- Grand Central Terminal plus Whispering Gallery
- SUMMIT One Vanderbilt
- High Line walk Hudson Yards through Chelsea
- Staten Island Ferry round trip at sunset for Statue and skyline views
- Double Chicken Please — impression
House rules
- Transit rule subway is the way; let people off first, stand right walk left on escalators, OMNY tap or MetroCard
- Times Square rule transit only, 30-minute cap; you don't go there, you go through
- Grid rule avenues run north-south, streets east-west; Manhattan above 14th is numbered
- Tipping 20% standard, before tax; never default the Apple Pay tip preset
- Cabs vs apps yellow cabs hail by hand; Uber and Lyft for outer boroughs; black cabs are private
- Late-night rule the city stops less than people think; 24-hour spots are diners, slice shops, and the Russian-Turkish baths
- Museum clock most close 5:30 to 6pm; the Met runs Friday and Saturday late to 9pm
- Bagel rule sliced and toasted is weekday breakfast; whole and untoasted with lox is the proper version
- Pizza rule fold the slice; eat standing if at a slice shop
- Borough rule rotate one borough a day, not three; the trip back is half the work
Two icons, one museum, one bridge, one neighborhood.
- Statue of Liberty plus Ellis Island
- 9/11 Memorial and Museum plus Oculus
- Walk Brooklyn Bridge into DUMBO then Brooklyn Bridge Park at sunset
- The Met one "big three" art stop
- West Village loop start at Washington Square Park, end at Hudson River Park piers
- Times Square at night in and out under 30 minutes
Add history, add Queens, add a night worth booking.
- Tenement Museum tour, then Lower East Side food crawl
- Broadway show
- Village Vanguard
- Attaboy
- Flushing food crawl for Chinese
- Roosevelt Island Tram skyline views, then riverfront walk to Four Freedoms Park
- New York Public Library Main Branch plus Bryant Park
Rotate boroughs. Keep the schedule humane.
- Harlem Apollo Theater, soul food crawl, Studio Museum
- American Museum of Natural History
- The Met Cloisters plus Fort Tryon Park
- Museum of the Moving Image Astoria
- Museum of the City of New York
- Guggenheim
- Central Park loop Gapstow Bridge, The Mall, Bethesda, Reservoir or Great Lawn
- DUMBO plus Brooklyn Heights, then Cobble Hill and Carroll Gardens for brownstone streets and relaxed dinner energy
- Jackson Heights Queens crawl focused on South Asian and Latin
- Top of the Rock or Edge at Hudson Yards second observatory pass if one was not enough
Iconic
- Statue of Liberty plus Ellis Island
- 9/11 Memorial and Museum plus Oculus
- Grand Central Terminal plus Whispering Gallery
- Brooklyn Bridge walk into DUMBO then Brooklyn Bridge Park at sunset
- Central Park the green spine; loop section depends on time of day
- Empire State Building observation deck; the original NYC view, less crowded after 9pm
- Chrysler Building exterior; Art Deco icon, no public observation
- Flatiron Building photograph from Madison Square Park, walk through
Streets and squares
- New York Public Library Main Branch plus Bryant Park
- Rockefeller Center base for Top of the Rock, windows, and the tree lane
- Times Square in transit only; 30-minute cap, go through, not to
- Washington Square Arch and the surrounding park; the West Village anchor
- Stonewall Inn West Village; the landmark, brief stop
Boroughs anchored
- Apollo Theater Harlem; Amateur Night history, the marquee
- Coney Island the boardwalk, the Cyclone, Nathan's; summer especially
- Arthur Avenue the Bronx's real Little Italy; food market, fresh pasta, mozzarella pulled by hand
- Snug Harbor Staten Island; historic cultural campus, botanical garden, after the ferry
One skyline observatory
- SUMMIT One Vanderbilt
- Top of the Rock
- Edge at Hudson Yards
- One World Observatory
Manhattan
- West Village loop start at Washington Square Park, end at Hudson River Park piers
- SoHo cast-iron architecture, shopping, galleries
- Chinatown food crawl
- Lower East Side Tenement Museum then food crawl; Russ & Daughters, Katz's
- East Village bars and late food; St. Mark's, Avenues A through C
- Tribeca cobblestones, brunch, the quieter downtown
- Chelsea High Line, galleries, Chelsea Market
- Upper West Side Central Park edge, Lincoln Center, museum row
- Harlem Apollo Theater, soul food, Studio Museum
Brooklyn
- DUMBO plus Brooklyn Heights then Cobble Hill and Carroll Gardens; brownstone streets, relaxed dinner energy
- Williamsburg Bedford Ave strip, waterfront, food and bar scene
- Greenpoint Polish heritage, Manhattan Ave, McCarren Park
- Park Slope Prospect Park edge, family Brooklyn, 7th Ave
- Bed-Stuy brownstone density, the Bed-Stuy food scene; Pecking House
- Crown Heights Caribbean food strip on Nostrand, brownstones
- Sunset Park Chinatown and Mexican food, 8th Ave Chinese, 5th Ave Mexican
- Coney Island the boardwalk and amusement park, summer day
Queens
- Flushing food crawl the Chinese anchor; New World Mall food court is the canonical introduction
- Jackson Heights South Asian and Latin crawl; Roosevelt Ave corridor
- Long Island City Gantry Park skyline, MoMA PS1, Rice Thief, Meju
- Astoria Greek heritage strip on 31st Ave; Museum of the Moving Image
- Sunnyside Irish, Korean, Turkish; quieter, locals
The Bronx
- Arthur Avenue (Belmont) the real Little Italy; Mike's Deli, Casa Della Mozzarella, the retail market
- The Bronx Zoo the largest urban zoo in the country
- New York Botanical Garden 250 acres; pair with Arthur Avenue
- Yankee Stadium South Bronx; game-day only
Staten Island
- Staten Island Ferry round trip free; the canonical sunset move
- Snug Harbor historic cultural campus and Chinese Scholar's Garden
- Sri Lankan strip in Tompkinsville Victory Boulevard; the largest Sri Lankan community in the US
Central Park loop
- Gapstow Bridge
- The Mall and Literary Walk
- Bethesda Terrace and Fountain
- The Reservoir or Great Lawn
- The Ramble the wooded middle, bird-watching, less crowded
- Belvedere Castle the small lookout over Turtle Pond
West side
- High Line walk Hudson Yards through Chelsea
- Hudson River Greenway walk
- Little Island
- Pier 57 rooftop
Water and skyline
- Staten Island Ferry round trip at sunset for Statue and skyline views
- Roosevelt Island Tram skyline views, then riverfront walk to Four Freedoms Park
- Walk Brooklyn Bridge into DUMBO then Brooklyn Bridge Park at sunset
- Brooklyn Bridge Park the piers, Jane's Carousel
- Brooklyn Heights Promenade the skyline view, the brownstones behind
- DUMBO cobblestone streets, Washington Street view of the bridge
- East River Esplanade downtown to midtown along the water
Walk lanes
- Bleecker Street the West Village spine; restaurants, bookshops, the Magnolia Bakery line
- Bedford Avenue Williamsburg's main artery; shops, cafés, bars, the Saturday walk
- Bond Street and Lafayette NoHo; cast-iron architecture, design shops
- Mulberry Street Little Italy; mostly tourist now, walk through
- Orchard and Ludlow Lower East Side; bars, vintage, late food
- St. Mark's Place East Village; old NYC, head shops, ramen
- Madison Avenue (60s-80s) Upper East Side; luxury shopping, museum row adjacent
- Court Street Cobble Hill; the brownstone Brooklyn walk
Parks beyond Central
- Prospect Park the Brooklyn equivalent; Olmsted's better park by some accounts
- Bryant Park midtown reset behind the Public Library
- Washington Square Park the West Village arch, chess tables, NYU adjacent
- Madison Square Park Flatiron view, Shake Shack origin
- Riverside Park Upper West Side waterfront
- Fort Tryon Park uptown; the Met Cloisters anchor
- Brooklyn Botanical Garden cherry blossoms in late April
Pools and baths
- Russian & Turkish Baths East 10th Street; the East Village institution, since 1892
- Bathhouse Williamsburg modern bathhouse, design-led, Brooklyn
- Astoria Pool the WPA outdoor pool; free, summer only
One "big three" art stop
- The Met
- MoMA
- Whitney
History and science
- American Museum of Natural History
- Tenement Museum
- Museum of the City of New York
A second, more focused stop
- Brooklyn Museum
- Guggenheim
- The Met Cloisters plus Fort Tryon Park
- Museum of the Moving Image Astoria
- The Frick Collection Old Master paintings in a Gilded Age mansion, Upper East Side
- The Morgan Library Pierpont Morgan's private library; manuscripts, the McKim hall
- Noguchi Museum Long Island City; sculpture by Isamu Noguchi, the garden alone
- MoMA PS1 contemporary, Long Island City; Warm Up parties in summer
Galleries
- Chelsea gallery district 20th to 27th Streets between 10th and 11th Aves; Hauser & Wirth, Gagosian, David Zwirner, Pace; Thursday-Saturday best
- Lower East Side galleries around Orchard and Henry Streets; smaller programmes, emerging artists
- Tribeca galleries the new gallery cluster; quieter, more curated
- Bushwick galleries the outermost ring; weekend visits, BOS open studios in June
Anchors
- Katz's Lower East Side pastrami institution, since 1888
- Russ & Daughters smoked fish and appetizing, since 1914
- Peter Luger Williamsburg steakhouse, since 1887, cash only
- Double Chicken Please Lower East Side — impression
- Bubby's Tribeca brunch, James Beard pancakes
Pizza
- L'Industrie Williamsburg and West Village; the standard-setter for the new wave
- Lucali Carroll Gardens; no reservations, line at open, BYOB
- Joe's Pizza Carmine Street; the classic walk-up slice
- Patsy's East Harlem; the coal-fired original, since 1933
- Roberta's Bushwick; wood-fired, the Bee Sting
- Forcella Brooklyn; Neapolitan, walk-in
- Emmy Squared Williamsburg; Detroit-style
- Ops Bushwick; natural wine plus pizza, regulars' room, no tourists
Delicatessen and bagel
- Russ & Daughters the lox standard; Houston Street counter
- Katz's pastrami on rye, dill pickle, cash to the cutter
- 2nd Ave Deli the kosher classic, moved uptown
- Absolute Bagels Upper West Side; locals' bagel, the Sunday line
- Ess-a-Bagel Midtown East; the bigger bagel, hand-rolled
- Sadelle's SoHo; the sit-down brunch lox version
- Tompkins Square Bagels East Village
Korean
- bōm NoHo; Michelin star Korean tasting menu
- COTE Flatiron; Korean steakhouse, Michelin star
- Meju Long Island City; Michelin star Korean tasting menu
- Rice Thief Long Island City; Korean raw seafood
- New Wonjo Koreatown; Korean BBQ, 24 hours
- Atoboy Flatiron; tasting room from the Atomix team
- Mokbar Chelsea Market; Korean-Japanese ramen
Chinese
- Flushing food crawl the Queens anchor — why it's worth the trip
- Asian Jewels Flushing; dim sum
- Nan Xiang Xiao Long Bao Flushing; the soup dumpling standard
- Haidilao Flushing; hot pot, theatrical service
- Chongqing Lao Zao Flushing; the Sichuan hot pot
- Chubby Skewers Flushing; Northeastern Chinese skewers
- New World Mall food court Flushing; the canonical introduction, multiple stalls
- Pecking House Bed-Stuy; Chinese-American, Eric Huang
- Wo Hop Chinatown basement; the 24-hour Cantonese classic, since 1938
- Joe's Shanghai Chinatown; soup dumplings, the original
Thai
- Pranakhon Manhattan; Michelin Bib Gourmand, the real heat
- Ugly Baby Carroll Gardens; serious Thai heat, not adjusted for comfort
- SriPraPhai Woodside; the longtime Queens standard
- Soothr East Village; thoughtful Thai
Vietnamese
- Bánh Anh Em Manhattan; the new-wave Vietnamese
- Bunker Bushwick; Vietnamese, the bánh mì standard
- Madame Vo East Village; phở
- Hà Nội House East Village; Northern Vietnamese
Indian and South Asian
- Dhamaka East Village; bold Indian regional cooking, not the softened version
- Semma West Village; South Indian, Michelin star, sister to Dhamaka
- Adda Long Island City; the original from the Unapologetic Foods group
- Jackson Heights crawl Roosevelt Ave corridor; Bangladeshi, Indian, Tibetan, momos
- Bombay Sandwich Co. Manhattan; vegetarian Indian street food
Japanese and ramen
- Nakamura Lower East Side; ramen, the canonical
- Ippudo East Village; the Japanese chain done well
- Tsurutontan Union Square; udon, huge bowls
- Soba Totto Midtown East; soba and izakaya
- Sushi Nakazawa West Village; omakase, Daisuke Nakazawa
- Sushi Yasaka Upper West Side; mid-tier omakase, accessible
Italian
- Cotta Upper West Side; cozy Italian
- Minetta Tavern West Village; classic French brasserie register, the Black Label burger
- Gottino West Village; Italian wine bar
- Malatesta West Village; Italian, cash only
- I Sodi West Village; Tuscan, the lasagne
- Carbone Greenwich Village; the dressy Italian-American, hard reservation
- Arthur Avenue Retail Market Bronx; Mike's Deli, fresh pasta, mozzarella pulled by hand
Modern American and farm-to-table
- Blue Hill Greenwich Village; Dan Barber, farm-to-table
- Gramercy Tavern Flatiron; Danny Meyer, modern American
- Le Bernardin Midtown; Eric Ripert, seafood, three Michelin stars
- Lilia Williamsburg; the Brooklyn Italian-American spot, Missy Robbins
Caribbean, Latin, Moroccan
- Cafe Mogador East Village; Moroccan classic
- Sylvia's Harlem; the soul food anchor
- Casa Adela East Village; Puerto Rican classic, the lechon
- Roosevelt Avenue Latin crawl Jackson Heights; Colombian, Mexican, Ecuadorian, Argentine
- Nostrand Avenue Caribbean Crown Heights; roti shops, jerk chicken
Markets
- Chelsea Market the central market hall, Lobster Place, Los Tacos No. 1
- Essex Market Lower East Side; modern market hall, Velvet Taco, Ni Japanese
- Time Out Market Brooklyn DUMBO waterfront; curated stalls
- Smorgasburg Williamsburg and Prospect Park; April to October outdoor food market
- Eataly Flatiron and World Trade Center; Italian everything under one roof
- Arthur Avenue Retail Market Bronx; the real one
Dishes to order
- NY pizza slice fold it; eat standing if at a slice shop
- Bagel with lox and cream cheese whole and untoasted; Russ & Daughters or Absolute
- Pastrami on rye Katz's; mustard, dill pickle, cash to the cutter
- NY cheesecake Junior's, since 1950
- Black-and-white cookie any deli; the canonical NY cookie
- Halal cart chicken-and-rice The Halal Guys at 53rd and 6th, white sauce, red sauce
- Dollar slice at 2am; the NYC ritual
- NY-style hot dog Nathan's at Coney Island or Gray's Papaya in transit
- Egg cream Gem Spa heritage, now Russ & Daughters
- Smoked fish appetizing sturgeon, sable, whitefish; the Sunday spread
Coffee (third-wave)
- Devoción Williamsburg, Flatiron; Colombian beans, the design-led room
- Sey Coffee Bushwick; the better Brooklyn roaster, the long bar
- Joe Coffee multiple branches; the foundational NYC third-wave, since 2003
- Café Grumpy multiple branches; the Greenpoint origin
- Variety Coffee Williamsburg and beyond; the consistent neighbourhood pick
- Bluestone Lane Australian-style coffee, multiple branches
- Abraço East Village; small, espresso-focused, since 2007
Bookshops
- Strand Book Store Union Square; 18 miles of books, since 1927
- McNally Jackson SoHo, Williamsburg, others; the better-curated indie chain
- Three Lives & Company West Village; small literary bookshop
- Argosy Midtown East; rare books and prints, since 1925
- Idlewild Books Williamsburg; travel and language
- Kinokuniya Bryant Park; Japanese, manga, design
- Books Are Magic Cobble Hill; Emma Straub's Brooklyn shop
- Greenlight Bookstore Fort Greene; the Brooklyn community bookshop
Theatre and stages
Broadway
- Broadway show TKTS Times Square for same-day; otherwise book a month ahead
- New Amsterdam Theatre the restored Art Nouveau house
- Lyceum Theatre oldest continuously-operating Broadway house, since 1903
Off-Broadway and beyond
- The Public Theater Astor Place; Shakespeare in the Park anchor, Hamilton's birthplace
- Lincoln Center Upper West Side; Metropolitan Opera, NY Philharmonic, NYCB
- BAM (Brooklyn Academy of Music) Fort Greene; the most ambitious programming in the city
- Atlantic Theater Company Chelsea; new American plays
- Signature Theatre Hell's Kitchen; playwright residencies
- Park Avenue Armory Upper East Side; large-scale immersive work
Music venues
- Carnegie Hall Midtown; classical, the canonical hall, since 1891
- Beacon Theatre Upper West Side; mid-size, classic-rock favourite
- Brooklyn Steel East Williamsburg; the better mid-size indie venue
- Bowery Ballroom Lower East Side; intimate indie, the canonical NYC small venue
- Music Hall of Williamsburg Bowery Ballroom's Brooklyn sibling
- Brooklyn Bowl Williamsburg; music plus bowling plus food
- Webster Hall East Village; reopened, mid-size
- Madison Square Garden arena, also basketball and hockey
- Radio City Music Hall Rockefeller Center; the Rockettes house
Jazz
- Village Vanguard West Village jazz landmark, since 1935
- Smalls West Village basement, late hours, walk-in
- Blue Note West Village; the famous-name room, two sets a night
- Smoke Jazz Upper West Side; jazz plus dinner
- Birdland Theater District; the Charlie Parker tribute name, classic programmes
- Dizzy's Club Lincoln Center; Wynton Marsalis's room, skyline views
Rooftop or skyline cocktail
- Overstory
- The Press Lounge
Cocktails and speakeasy nights
Can't miss
- Double Chicken Please — impression
- Sip & Guzzle speakeasy
- BARBAM speakeasy — impression
- Attaboy
- Dante West Village aperitivo
Classic speakeasy hits
- PDT East Village speakeasy through a phone booth
- Employees Only
- Angel's Share Japanese-influenced East Village speakeasy
Hudson Valley by train
- Beacon Metro-North 90 min; Dia:Beacon contemporary art warehouse, Main Street walk, the river
- Cold Spring Metro-North 80 min; antique shops, Hudson views, easier-than-Beacon day
- Storm King Art Center car or shuttle; 500 acres of monumental sculpture, May to November
- Hudson Amtrak 2 hr; antiques, restaurants, Olana
- Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow Metro-North 45 min; Lyndhurst, the cemetery, the bridge views
Long Island
- Montauk the East End point; LIRR 3 hr or Hampton Jitney; surf, lighthouse, oysters
- The Hamptons Sag Harbor, East Hampton, Bridgehampton; summer only, by Jitney
- Greenport the North Fork alternative; quieter, wineries, oysters
- Fire Island ferry from Bay Shore; car-free, beach, summer day
By train, longer
- Philadelphia Amtrak 75 min; Reading Terminal Market, the museums, Italian Market
- Washington DC Acela 3 hr; the Mall, the monuments, day trip is tight, overnight better
- New Haven, Connecticut Metro-North or Amtrak 90 min; Yale campus, the pizza (Frank Pepe, Sally's)
- Mystic, Connecticut Amtrak 2 hr; seaport, lighthouses
Close-in
- Coney Island half-day; subway away, the boardwalk, the Cyclone, Nathan's
- Jersey City and Hoboken PATH; the Manhattan skyline from across the water
- Liberty State Park NJ side; ferries to Liberty and Ellis, skyline at sunset
- Sandy Hook NJ ferry; beach, Atlantic side, summer day
Events
- Manhattanhenge mid-May and mid-July; sunset aligns with the Manhattan grid, the photo move
- NYC Marathon first Sunday in November; all 5 boroughs, the largest marathon in the world
- Cherry blossoms at Brooklyn Botanical late April; Sakura Matsuri festival
- NYC Pride last Sunday in June; the march, the parties, the historic Stonewall
- US Open tennis late August to early September; Flushing Meadows, ground passes work
- Shakespeare in the Park June to August; free tickets the morning of, Delacorte in Central Park
- SummerStage in Central Park June to August; free concerts, the schedule is the trick
- Coney Island Mermaid Parade Saturday closest to summer solstice; the cult parade
- Tribeca Film Festival June; downtown screenings
- West Indian Day Parade Labor Day Monday; Eastern Parkway in Brooklyn
- Halloween Parade 6th Ave in the West Village; the rolling crowd
- Restaurant Week winter and summer; the prix-fixe at otherwise out-of-reach rooms
- Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade the route is the trick; balloons inflated the night before on the Upper West Side
- 4th of July fireworks Macy's; East River one year, Hudson the next
- Rockefeller tree lighting early December; do not go the night of, see it the day after
- New Year's Eve Times Square ball drop; only worth doing if you're prepared to stand all day
Season notes
- May to early June the best stretch; mild, long light, cherry blossoms early, US Open builds
- July and August heat and humidity, the city smells; Governors Island, Smorgasburg, rooftops
- September and October the second-best stretch; cool, Open finals, fashion week, leaves turn
- December Rockefeller tree, windows, theatre season; bring layers, expect crowds
- January and February the cheap-flight months; museums, restaurant week, fewer tourists
Other
- Governors Island May to October; car-free, bikes, skyline and Statue of Liberty views from the water
- Smorgasburg April to October; outdoor food market, Williamsburg and Prospect Park
- Live sports MSG (Knicks, Rangers), Yankee Stadium, Citi Field, Barclays Center