Prep 45 mins · Cook 18 to 22 mins · Total 2 1/2 hrs (incl. 1 hr filling chill, 15 min assembled chill) · Servings 24 to 30 · Difficulty Advanced
For 1 lb pork (about 24 to 30 pastries at 2 1/2 to 3 inches)
Pastry
2 packs all-butter puff pastry, 4 sheets total, Dufour or Trader Joe's all-butter (avoid butter-flavored)
Egg wash
2 egg yolks
1 tbsp water
A pinch of salt to thin and deepen the color
Filling
1 lb ground pork shoulder, not lean, 20 percent fat or higher
1/2 cup wood ear mushrooms, soaked 20 to 30 minutes in cold water, drained, squeezed dry, finely chopped
2 shallots, finely minced
1/2 tsp chicken bouillon powder
1/2 tsp fine salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp fish sauce, Red Boat 40°N or Megachef premium
1 tsp cornstarch
1 egg white
A small bundle of glass noodles (miến), soaked and finely chopped, optional, for extra texture
Pâté upgrade, recommended
2 to 3 tbsp smooth pork liver pâté, kept cold
A small spoon to portion small dabs at the center of each pastry
Optional finish
Toasted white or black sesame seeds
A small crack of fresh black pepper
Make the filling
Combine the pork, wood ear, shallots, bouillon, salt, pepper, sugar, fish sauce, cornstarch, and egg white in a bowl
Mix until evenly combined and slightly tacky, do not overwork into a paste
Cook a small piece in a dry pan and taste, adjust only if needed, the filling should land savory, peppery, balanced
Cover and chill at least 1 hour, longer is fine
Prep the pastry
Thaw the puff pastry per the package, cold but workable
Line a sheet pan with parchment
Whisk the egg yolks, water, and pinch of salt for the wash
Lightly flour the work surface if needed
Cut even squares or rounds, 2 1/2 to 3 inches wide, half will be bottoms, half will be tops
Keep the cut pastry cold while you work
Fill and shape
Place a domed mound of chilled filling at the center of each bottom piece, do not overfill, do not flatten
Press a small dab of cold pâté into the top of each mound
Brush the exposed pastry edges with egg wash or water
Cover with a top piece, line up the edges
Press to seal, then crimp with a fork or pinch with fingers
Cut a small steam vent and a decorative score pattern on top, leaf veins, cross-hatch, or simple lattice, do not cut through
Brush the tops with egg wash, this is the first wash
Chill the assembled pastries 15 minutes minimum
Egg wash again and bake
Heat the oven to 400°F
Just before baking, brush each pastry with a second coat of egg wash, this is the move that gives lacquered mahogany shine
Sprinkle with sesame and a crack of pepper if using
Bake 18 to 22 minutes until the tops are deep mahogany and the bottoms are golden brown
For extra puff, blast at 425°F for the first 5 minutes, then drop to 375°F for the remaining time
Rest and serve
Rest 5 to 10 minutes before serving
Pâté chaud means warm pâté, not lava pâté
Eat warm, the pastry should still crackle but the filling should be settled
Reheat
325°F oven for 8 to 10 minutes
Never microwave, the pastry turns to rubber
Notes
Wood ear is the signature Viet move that separates pâté chaud from a French chausson, do not skip
Double egg wash, once after assembly, once just before baking, gives the bakery shine
Dome the filling, do not flatten, the dome is what gives the puffed crown
Cold filling, cold pastry, cold assembled pastries, cold is everything for proper lamination
All-butter puff pastry only, butter-flavored shortcut pastry will not deliver the right texture or taste
Pâté at center beats pâté mixed in, the bite should hit pork first, then the cool richness in the middle
Saigon bakery sizing is 2 1/2 to 3 inches, smaller pastries bake more evenly and have a better filling-to-pastry ratio
Pepper is the flavor identity, do not be shy, 1 tsp for 1 lb pork is the floor
